Happy Easter :-)

Happy Easter!!!
I've completely forgotten it this year :-)
The Hindi reminded me of it on Friday when I wanted to apply for new visa. The embassy was closed because of...Good Friday!!!! Since when Indians are so Christian?
On the other hand, the Nepalese couldn't care less. Since their week starts on Sunday everything was open today. I was having very administrative Easter Sunday, running from Department of Immigration (extending my visa) to Board of Tourism (getting my permit and admission for Annapurna). It cost me the WHOLE DAY and €100...

So now I'm all set to go for a long trek around Annapurna (2 up to 3 weeks), as soon as my body will tell me that it's done with the cold.
Vio happy!  :-)

On Friday we had our rdv with Cindy! It was very exciting to see her here, in Nepal! And to have a piece of Bxl with her :-) We caught on each other's news. It always melts my heart to have my friends at hand after such a long time and distance from home. Even if it's for one evening... :-)

Himalayas

I'm back to civilisation. Alive and kicking. Happy to have done a trek of 12 days and still I can't believe that I'm in HIMALAYAS!

It was marvellous to be in the mountains, surrounded by these giants... Mountains always make me humble. The white peaks of Himalayas even more :-) Magnificent..proud...just standing there for millions of years, roaring with the wind captured in their giant arms of valleys... They make me feel like a little crevette, little flake in the mass of snow...
Who am I, this little person and my little life compare to Them? Everything is in the monstrous size: the peaks, glaciers or a valleys that are left after...
Just the little houses and lodges of local people bring you back to the human size....

I survived the cold. Already above 2000m the evenings and nights are biting freezing. I struggled to warm up in my sleeping bag with 2 blankets over me :-) But there was always a nice fire place where all trekkers gather to warm up the limbs.
I followed the rhythm of the sun - going to bed at 9pm and waking up at 6am. The mornings above 4000m are breath taking, especially when the sun throws its red light on the opposite peaks.

It's confirmed - I love trekking :-) It's enough to push me in the morning and, like a wind-up toy, I will just walk and walk and walk... Up and down, down and up, deep in my thoughts - I'm meditating my life :-) my work, my projects, my dreams, my successes and my mistakes in life, my relationships, my family.... Maybe on another trek I can get to my past lives and reincarnations :-)

I started trekking with a trio of young friendly... Germans (of course, know my soft spot). For 6 days I tagged along... My condition above 3000m deteriorates drastically :-) I needed to stop every 10m to catch my breath :-) They went back to KTM for the Holy, festival of colours. I turned to another trek to get to the sacred, for Hindu, lakes. I did some difficult parts with people. Otherwise I was very happy to trip trot alone through the changing landscape. White peaks and vast, scarce with vegetation area slowly gave way to pine and rhododendron forests. You can imagine a smile on my face as I was walking through them smelling fresh pine trees and soaking the pleasant warmth of the Himalayan sun :-)
Going down I could slowly put away my gear - hat and gloves away, undoing the layers of clothes...until only T-shirt :-)
Apparently up there my microbes were also paralysed by the temperature. As soon as I got down to 2500m, I got a cold that bugs my till now and delays my next trek...

It so easy and pleasant to hike here. The trails are clear and there is no other confusing ways to go. Even with my poor orientation I had no issues. When there is more paths, it's already at the level where villages are one after another, so I can ask for the way.
The loges are simple which brings more charm - shower with a hot bucket, if there is water. Too cold to play with soap so I just rinse myself :-) And what a pleasure to have socks and T-shirt washed!!!
Of course everybody goes the same way so we kept crossing each other at lunch / tea places or lodges, or even down here :-) It's already like a little community.





 

Into the Himalayas!!!

So, dear friends, off i go into the wilderness of Himalayas! I'm so happy cause that's my favourite thing to do - just putting my boots on, having 2 pairs of trousers and t-shirts and off I go hiking and hiking and hiking, far away from the civilisation :-)  I will have another more than 2 weeks around Annapurna, with a little break in Pokhara.
The only shadow in this story is that I didn't manage to join Cindy who will be here trekking as well... I needed to organise myself otherwise due to the expensive permits that I want use to maximum and visas...
Over for now :-)

Nepal!!!

I am in Nepal!!! I can't believe it!
It was my dream for ages to go one day to Nepal and trek on the roof of the world. And here I am :-)

Before though I had to say goodbye to India. For all this time I thought "I'm leaving home for a trip". But when I had to fill the immigration form of leaving the country, I got this uncomfortable feeling, like I was kicked out of my house... And now not only distance but also the border, separates me from Lizzy.
On the other hand I was a bit fed up with India. I needed a change, getting a sparkles again about anew - new people, new culture, different setting. It was good shot - Nepal is very different :-)

So meanwhile I prepare the trekking. It took me a while to figure out how does it work... It's soooo expensive! One needs permits, entrances to the parks, plus paying a guide, etc...
I'm eager to take off though. Sitting in Kathmandu is suffocating, like in any city. It's fun here,with nice cafes and restos, sitting next to the temples :-) but it's still a busy city.

Bit sentimental...

Back to Delhi

Quiet moment before changing the setting.
After the night train to Delhi, a morning tea somewhere around Old Delhi station. Sweet sweet chai, not so much masala chai. Place like many here - little bit of everything: resto, chai, chai and resto, newspaper stand. Morning actions: sb scrabbling the ladle, sb cleaning the charcoal stoves, sb cooking and sb eating, sb having his morning bath- putting the soap all over his body including a cleaning hand in his underpants, then rinse and gave me a big smily good morning :-)  Policemen reading newspaper and fat cat that looks like a mini tiger. Soaking chana (chickpea), filling up cauldrons, cleaning milk and rinsing metal cups. Sb splashed the water on sb - shouting and laughing. And out there bike rickshaws and busses. That's a Friday morning in Delhi.

Metro still impresses me. Indeed, it's full of middle class people, from lower middle (new) to upper middle (already well established in their habits). Nice smooth skin, beautiful almond shaped eyes, western style clothes, every other person is plugged with a pair of headphones, this way permanently connected to the smart phone.

The metro, for some reason, makes me think of Paris...and then I miss home :-) It's been half a year that I'm away from everything that is familiar and more or less understandable. Away from close friends. I'm getting homesick... Since the beginning of Dec I was accompanied almost all the time by sb from home. It's been only over a week that I'm "alone". And I get nostalgic... Nepal will keep me afresh and will bring an excitement.
For a feel of home I went to Starbucks. I had to stand in a line to get in! Inside full of young rich and yuppies (but no tourists). I had a cake and "our beloved and most respected" espresso - it cost me as much as logging in Rishikesh... That's how extreme India can be. And that's the price of the global wealth.

Post IYF impressions

Honestly, I don't know what to think of it... I don't relate to the "spirituality" that was promoted here in every sentence. It's my very subjective opinion and maybe I'm not there yet on my spiritual path to listen to it openly and understand. so far this speeches are just a lot of foam to me. When the Indians are sharing their wisdom, knowledge and experience, it sounds authentic. Sometimes i don't follow but there is also different culture base to the logic. When the American blondie talks about Mother Ganga, how she flows through our bodies and our hearts and how we should be as loving and generous as her....I'm sorry but I don't get it...

I have the feeling that the whiter your skin is, the more fluffy and cult  language you are to use. Swami girl, who is the right hand of Swami Chidanandji, was full of "our beloved and most respected" or "our beautiful" minds /souls/ you name it... After only 3 days of that I was getting resentful. 

I was happy to get to some classes, where teacher would be connecting with the group and lead practice or lecture with some sense of humour. Yoga is playing as well, after all. 

I guess bilans is not bad - within two and a half day I discovered 4 excellent and inspiring practitioners and 2 outstanding spiritual leaders. 

I've received even the answer to my Quest for Vio from Mooji, a truly and simply a gorgeous soul, said "whoever you want to be, you already are". Nothing new but sometimes you have to hear it from a right person in a right context. 

I can come back home :-) 

Other stuff:

No Lonely Planet, I feel like a handicap. I can't make a mental representation of the town...don't know where I am and where I'm going... Auto rickshaw of course asks 100 rps as a start because of my white face... I have to play the game: drop it by half. It usually works, which only means that they are still making profits. And still i was ripped off - I payed 30-50 rupees for a trip that locally cost...5-10 rps as I found out later. 

I had to have my nose ring removed... It was too infected. It turned out that the ring wasn't gold but only gold coated... Bloody Indians... I got it on the other side though :-) a bit bigger :-)

You wouldn't believe it - on the very (holy) bridge of Rishikesh I bumped into Analisa - the Malteese girl that I met with Marta in Munnar (v south and v long time ago)! 

I know that today is the 8th but I just found out that we are Friday :-) holidays it's fun! 

International Yoga Festival

Hardiwar
Freezing Mother Ganga's waters and everybody goes in - bathing, blessing, washing, cleaning oneself completely, together with shaving head... Of course the business around is blooming, selling prayers and offering flowers, donations for temples, the barbers with their mats and tools ready for action. The ghats are loud with prayers and chanting through megaphones.

Rishikesh

Rishikesh gave me such a headache!!!
I have to tell you my adventures of the 3 fist days!  It started nicely - I arrived at my couch place (I did the Couch Surfing), get to the venue where I could register for the yoga festival and found a place to stay for the days to come of my wonderful week with yoga.
My home was at a government "tourist complex" which reminded me of good communist times in Poland, with sober blocks and greenery around. The corridor looked like a prison. But the room was clean and I liked the peacefulness of this place. It was actually quiet! I must tell you that the locals here love to use their horns.
The International Yoga Festival was a highlight of my trip, especially after my teacher training. I want to explore more of the base of yoga, the spiritual base and get to know all kinds of practices.
And good for them!  Before it was organised by and took place in one ashram, Parmarth  Nitekan. The participation was on the " donation" base - $600!!! I refused to pay, oh sorry, to give the donation.
I came here thinking there must be another way to participate for much less than that.
So lucky me 'cause this year, for the first time, they've changed the concept of it. The "government" decided to open it up to other venues and wider public. They organised buses, food, etc. Still, it was an indian organisation: when I ask the question, the guy runs to another person, who runs to yet another and eventually I'm kindly asked to go to swami himself. Meanwhile I'm introduced to important looking little man, who happen to be...an ex ambassador of India in Poland (2005-07)! Good laugh!
So Vio happy! I'm registered, I have my room, now I surrender to divine yoga science for a week.
The inauguration was huge and I must say, I was impressed. It looked nice nice and not kitschy nice :-) Besides that the honourable guests arrived way late. And here comes cliche: the minister of Uttarakhand enters the room 30 min late, surrenders by guards and armed police....with his mobile by his ear... I thought Bollywood was exaggerating.
Swami Chidanand Saraswati from Parmarth Niketan Ashram is there, as some other swamis and ministers.
Btw, I think the character of Hagrid in Harry Potter was based on the Swami - they look the same!!! Look:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=hagrid+hagrid&hl=en&client=safari&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=Psc9UdbGIcyUrgex7IDoCQ&ved=0CDoQsAQ&biw=1024&bih=672

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=swami+chidananda+saraswati+image&hl=en&client=safari&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=rsc9UY3gL4T9rAeOkoH4CQ&ved=0CC4QsAQ&biw=1024&bih=672

In the afternoon I go to Parmarth Niketan Ashram 'cause I want to see their program as it was nowhere to be seen in the first place. There I was told that "they have nothing to do with this International Yoga Festival. They were organising it for last 13 years and their event is International Yoga Festival". Ok, disappointed and angry with Indian misinformation, I go back to "my" IYF. I go to first yoga class - our dear ex ambassador of India in Poland (2005-07) is giving us a class of...Hatha yoga warm-ups!!! Half of the group were indians from organising crew and the guy, by the end of the class, has given up on EN translation and sticked to Hindi. Very well, I'm very much for the idea of bringing the yoga back to Indians but please inform me up ahead! That did it! 

I requested a meeting with sb from organisation. I explain my point. The guy sends me to swami himself. I explain my point. Swami pissed off 'cause apparently they have signed the cooperation agreement (which he waves in front of my face). He asks me to put everything in writing which I happily do - not only it helps to let off my steam but also IT MIGHT serve a good cause of taking monopoly of yoga from Parmarth Niketan Ashram and allows accessible prices for EVERYBODY, Indian or foreigner. 

With this info I go back to Parmarth Niketan 'cause there is a lecture of Swami that I really wanted to listen to. Well, they let me in giving the benefits of doubts, and I'm to enquire after for the more grounded info. The answer is no - with my pass from there I can't participate here... Enough for me!!! I'm done with their politics, I just want to do yoga at satisfying level and learn more to it. 

I go back to "my" IYF and ask for my money back. It's not difficult 'cause when you get on the nerves of an Indian, he will throw your money in your face. Well, I brush it off with the wishes of more success next year etc. I was informed that this situation is a serious matter and they plan to take Swami from Parmarth Niketan to the court...

I'm in trouble 'cause however I want to get a pass for a day or two in Parmarth Niketan!!! So at registration I took a nick name - Ewa Nowak, like in times of war...

I must say that it was a battle for me. Usually I'm the last one to complain. I'm too shy. But I cared too much for this festival of yoga experience. I moved away from "my" IYF and I feel happier. It is a choice between crazy Indians worshiping swamis and their ministers, and crazy westerns - enlighten, all in white and so spiritual that it's sometimes kitschy, chanting mantras at every corner. Out of the two, I prefer the second - at least it's in EN, classes and lectures are led by good teachers.

Delhi

Visiting Sujai gave me different feel of the city :-)
Residential area, tall blocks of aparts but with green plants all around. Everybody around take care that there is greenery at the door.There is lovely market with stands, where chai and food and sweets are made in front of you, little shops that are neatly arranged (for a change): rows of dhal, rows of beans, spices and all in order!
Nice and friendly. And the metro!!! It's quite advanced: electrical board inside with a little dot to show you where you are, clean, specious, efficient. The Indian spice to it - there are guards at every door to teach Indians to stand in a line and not to push in... It works more or less :-)

I spent lovely afternoon with Sujai, his mum, and her college friends! Lovely chatty ladies, interesting and interested. Right away there was food on the table, like I was an old friend of the family, while I've seen these ladies first time in my life! I entered their space "most welcomed" in full literal meaning of this expression.

chez Lizz hotel in Bangalore

I'm sorry, People, for no pics but it takes me a while to connect to place where I can download... When I manage I will attach some visual clues :-)

Back to the 5 star hotel “chez Lizzy” :-)

After 5 weeks in a coconut hut in Goa and temporary room in Hampi, I’m coming back home :-) Lizzy hosted us in a most Indian way – we were at the table often and for a long time, all the time encouraged to “have some more”.

We had lovely a couple of days of just pattering around a house. That’s what we used to do when all of us lived in Bxl – we would gather in Christiane’s flat and “do nothing together”: one was reading, another one was on the computer, somebody else in the kitchen (mostly Christiane). We repeated it in extended version while at Lizz’. It was so so nice :-)

Then I had to pack!!!

My visa is expiring on the 11^th of March! 6 months in India have passed!!! I have done what I wished for this period. I had amazing experiences.

And guess what?  I have still 6 months to go!!!

I will go to Nepal for some time and then… I have no clue. And I love it! I can go and do anything :-)

Meanwhile packing – within this time I collected quite a few things…about 20 kg…

Don’t worry, I don’t take it with me to Nepal. I just take essentials for different circumstances and changing weather…17kg….

Hampi

We went with Chrstiane and Helmut to Hampi. What a place!!! The reminiscence of a great kingdom which richness is still visible although….mostly in ruins… Temples, temples and more temples. Big and small, simple and beautifully decorated. And all that spread on quite a distance. Add to it gorgeous scenery of enormous boulders and little river (irrigation channel actually) and charming village that literally touches the historical bazaar and temple.

Yes, the whole site is Unesco World Heritage… which means that is to be protected…also from the people who live there. The government works now on relocating entire villages. Of course, they resist ‘cause they live on the tourism...

Hampi is a very meditative place. It really inspires peace and reflection. The ruins are working on my imagination – how people used to live, worship, carry on with their daily life…

The girls arrived and we spend a lovely day together on the bikes.

leaving Goa...

So I did leave the paradise. 

But before… I pierced my nose :-)  Why not! I don’t think it would suit the European School setting so I will take advantage of the time before :-)

Vio happy!

Cecile's birthday in our cool chai shop :-)

Some farewell photos...

our home with Barb,
then only mine

More friends!

More friends!!!!

Believe it or not, the last evening in Goa two other friends have arrived! It’s so nice to see them! Again, connection to Bxl :-) 

 

We had some time on Sunday to chill out and enjoy the waves.

Old friends... 

and all zusammen....