The difference is stunning! Slowly, as we go west from Leh to Srinagar (Kashmir), the faces change, the clothing change, the expression and attitude of people change. The women disappear from the streets - we're surrounded 90% by men... I start to feel uncomfortable. The language, the way speaking, the expression on their faces evokes some sort of fear. The air is electric.
Has the unstable situation in Kashmir shaped the people? Or have "electrical" people created the situation in Kashmir?
2 weeks before our arrival, there were some protests and shooting here...
A Ladakhi person told us: "you can never be sure of weather in Ladakh, situation in Kashmir and fashion in the US".
Of course we meet kind people as well. But the welcoming in Srinagar was a shock for me. Surrounded by taxi / boat / guesthouse solicitors straight on and around our bus at 6am (after 12 hours night ride)... They stick to us like flies. My, finally impatient, "no, thank you. If I need a boat I will come and find you" met with a surprised answer: "why are you so rude?". We clearly have culturally different idea of "rude" and personal space. Then a taxi driver shouted at us and became physical with us 'cause we refused to be screwed over 10 times a rate for a 5min ride. Then a boatman took us to his friend's boat instead of the one we asked. Then he reluctantly took us to the one we wanted but he couldn't find it, in spite of his reassurance before that of course he knows where it is....
I want to be back in Ladakh!!!!
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